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A Garden of Fedoras

This year we are pleased to be participating in Crochetville's National Crochet Month Designer Blog Tour! All this month they have been highlighting various designers, so be sure to check in on their blog each day for the featured designer. But today is our day to shine.

Before I get to our featured pattern, I'd like to mention that the blog tour also has a pet charity project. Crochetville is a corporate sponsor of Halos of Hope, a 501(c)3 charity that provides handmade hats to cancer patients, so we are trying to see how many hats we can get them this month! If you would like to participate, hats may be sent to the following address:

Crochetville LLC
ATTN: Amy Shelton
103 Scarlet Oak Circle
Harvest, AL 35749

Now for the important question: What type of hat should you make? And that brings us to our featured pattern!

A Garden of Fedoras


When we asked if the hats should be traditional chemo caps or if they could be something fun like a fedora, we received this in answer: "Just because you've lost your hair, doesn't mean you've lost your sense of style."

We've been wanting to develop a fedora pattern for quite some time. The fedora is part of The Animator's trademark look for his retro gaming podcast, and we've been dying to create matching father-daughter fedoras for him and Little Lovely.

A Garden of Fedoras

What makes this pattern special? We wanted to make a fedora that didn't require any special shaping when the crocheting was done. No stiff wires or tricky blocking; when it's done, it's done. And we wanted to be sure to use one of Halos of Hope's recommended yarns. They emphasize that soft is key, so unfortunately craft store acrylic won't work for these hats. For this reason, we chose Cascade Cherub Aran for its washability and affordability.

Since the theme of the blog tour is "spring garden," we added an optional daffodil for a more feminine look. The daffodil has long been the official flower for the American Cancer Society, symbolizing strength and courage.

While our pattern is sized from Preemie all the way up to Adult Man, please note that Halos of Hope only accepts sizes 6 months and up. We just wanted to include the smaller sizes for our friends and family who also donate to NICUs.

A Garden of Fedoras

Finished Size: Preemie (Newborn, 0-6m, 6-12m, Toddler, Child, Teen, Adult Woman, Adult Male)

Skill Level: Intermediate

Materials:
Main Color (MC): Cascade Cherub Aran, 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) skeins
Size F-5 (3.75mm) crochet hook
Stitch marker

Optional:
Flower (Yellow): Cascade Cherub Aran, less than one skein
Yarn needle

Gauge Square:
Ch 34. ROW 1. Sc in third ch from hook, *ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch; rep from * across. (16 sc) ROWS 2-28. Ch 2; turn. Sc in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * across. (16 sc and 28 rows = 4 inches)

Special Stitch: Picot
Ch 3, sl st in last st worked before ch 3.

Note:
Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses.  To avoid confusion, it may be helpful to circle the numbers corresponding to your size before beginning this project.  When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

Crown Top

Worked in the round without joining or turning between rounds. To help keep track of your stitches, it may be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning of each rnd.

With MC, ch 5.

Rnd 1. Sc in second ch from hook and ea ch across, then rotate and work 1 sc in ea unused loop of the beg ch across the bottom. 8 sc

Rnd 2. 2 sc in ea sc around. 16 sc

Rnd 3. 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last 2 sc. 24 sc

RND 4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 4 times, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice. (32 sc)

Rnd 5. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) twice, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 4 times, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) twice. 40 sc

Sizes Newborn to Adult Male Only:

Rnd 6. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) twice, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 4 times, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) twice. 48 sc

Sizes 0-6m to Adult Male Only:

Rnd 7. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) twice, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) 4 times, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) twice. 56 sc

Sizes Toddler to Adult Male Only:

Rnd 8. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) twice, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) 4 times, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) twice. 64 sc

Sizes Teen to Adult Male Only:

Rnd 9. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc) twice, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc) 4 times, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc) twice. 72 sc

All Sizes:

Rnds 6-7 (7-9, 8-10, 8-10, 9-12, 9-12, 10-13, 10-13, 10-13). Sc in ea sc around.

Rnd 8 (10, 11, 11, 13, 13, 14, 14, 14). (Sc, ch 1) in ea sc around. Join with sl st in first sc in rnd.

The last rnds are worked by joining and turning between rnds.

Rnds 9-10 (11-12, 12-14, 12-14, 14-16, 14-16, 15-18, 15-18, 15-18). Ch 2; turn. Sc in first ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, working last sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in current rnd.

Finish off. The join in the last rnd marks the center back.

Crown Body

Worked in the round from the top down, joining between rounds and turning. The joins mark the center back.

With MC, ch 82 (98, 114, 114, 130, 130, 146, 146, 146).

Note: If you are in the habit of doing the beginning ch with a larger hook than the rest of the project, do not do so with the Crown Body or Brim. It may result in a ruffled edge, and in turn a sloppy finish to the hat.

Rnd 1. Sc in third ch from hook, (ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch) 8 (10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 16) times, ch 1, skip next ch, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch, *(ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch) 9 (11, 13, 13, 15, 15, 17, 17, 17) times, ch 1, skip next ch, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch; rep from * across. Join with sl st in beg ch. 44 (52, 60, 60, 68, 68, 76, 76, 76) sc

Rnds 2-5. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, *ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch sp; rep from * across, working the last sc in the t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd.

Rnd 6. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) 9 (11, 13, 13, 15, 15, 17, 17, 17) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch, *(ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) 10 (12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18, 18, 18) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch; rep from * across, working last (sc, ch 1, sc) in the t-ch of previous rnd Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. 48 (56, 64, 64, 72, 72, 80, 80, 80) sc

Rnds 7-10. Rep rnds 2-5.

Rnd 11. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) 10 (12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18, 18, 18) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch, *(ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) 11 (13, 15, 15, 17, 17, 19, 19, 19) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch; rep from * across, working last (sc, ch 1, sc) in the t-ch of previous rnd Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. 52 (60, 68, 68, 76, 76, 84, 84, 84) sc

Rnds 12-15. Rep rnds 2-5.

Finish off Preemie size.

Rnd 16. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) - (13, 15, 15, 17, 17, 19, 19, 19) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch, *(ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) - (14, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch; rep from * across, working last (sc, ch 1, sc) in the t-ch of previous rnd Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. - (64, 72, 72, 80, 80, 88, 88, 88) sc

Rnds 17-20. Rep rnds 2-5.

Finish off Newborn and 0-6m sizes.

Rnd 21. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) - (-, -, 16, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch, *(ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) - (-, -, 17, 19, 19, 21, 21, 21) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch; rep from * across, working last (sc, ch 1, sc) in the t-ch of previous rnd Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. - (-, -, 76, 84, 84, 92, 92, 92) sc

Rnds 22-25. Rep rnds 2-5.

Finish off 6-12m and Toddler sizes.

Rnd 26. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) - (-, -, -, -, 19, 21, 21, 21) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch, *(ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) - (-, -, -, -, 20, 22, 22, 22) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch; rep from * across, working last (sc, ch 1, sc) in the t-ch of previous rnd Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. - (-, -, -, -, 88, 96, 96, 96) sc

Rnds 27-30. Rep rnds 2-5.

Finish off Child, Teen, and Adult Woman sizes.

Rnd 31. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) - (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 22) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch, *(ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) - (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 23) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch; rep from * across, working last (sc, ch 1, sc) in the t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. - (-, -, -, -, -, -, -, 100) sc

Rnds 32-35. Rep rnds 2-5.

Finish off.

Brim

Worked in the round from inner edge to outer edge, joining and turning between rounds. The joins mark the center back.

With MC, ch 106 (130, 146, 154, 170, 178, 194, 194, 202).

Rnd 1. Sc in third ch from hook, *ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch; rep from * across. Join with sl st in beg ch. 52 (64, 72, 76, 84, 88, 96, 96, 100) sc

Rnd 2. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) 18 (23, 26, 27, 30, 32, 35, 35, 36) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) 13 (16, 18, 19, 21, 22, 24, 24, 25) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, working last sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. 54 (66, 74, 78, 86, 90, 98, 98, 102) sc

Rnd 3. Ch 2; turn. (Sc, ch 1) in ea ch sp around, sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd.

Rnd 4. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) 18 (23, 26, 27, 30, 32, 35, 35, 36) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) 15 (18, 20, 21, 23, 24, 26, 26, 27) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, working last sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. 56 (68, 76, 80, 88, 92, 100, 100, 104) sc

Rnd 5. Rep rnd 3.

Rnd 6. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) 18 (23, 26, 27, 30, 32, 35, 35, 36) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) 17 (20, 22, 23, 25, 26, 28, 28, 29) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, working last sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. 58 (70, 76, 80, 88, 92, 100, 100, 104) sc

Rnd 7. Rep rnd 3.

Finish off Preemie size.

Rnd 8. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) - (23, 26, 27, 30, 32, 35, 35, 36) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) - (22, 24, 25, 27, 28, 30, 30, 31) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, working last sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. - (72, 78, 82, 90, 94, 102, 102, 106) sc

Rnd 9. Rep rnd 3.

Finish off Newborn and 0-6m sizes.

Rnd 10. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) - (-, -, 27, 30, 32, 35, 35, 36) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) - (-, -, 27, 29, 30, 32, 32, 33) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, working last sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. - (-, -, 84, 92, 96, 104, 104, 108) sc

Rnd 11. Rep rnd 3.

Finish off 0-6m and 6-12m sizes.

Rnd 12. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) - (-, -, -, -, 32, 35, 35, 36) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) - (-, -, -, -, 32, 34, 34, 35) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, working last sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. - (-, -, -, -, 98, 106, 106, 110) sc

Rnd 13. Rep rnd 3.

Finish off.

Fedora Assembly

Note: Although the assembly instructions refer to “Wrong Sides” and “Right Sides” of the fabric, whatever side is designated as the “Right Side” is up to you. Choose whichever side you think looks best. The distinction is only made to indicate which side of the hat the joining stitches should be made.

Line up the center back of the Crown Top with the back of the Crown Body. Pin into place.  With WRONG SIDES together, join yarn with slip stitch through both Crown Top and Crown Body. Working through both layers, ch 1, then (sc, ch 1) evenly around to join both pieces together.

Line up the center back of the Brim with the center back of the Crown Body. Pin into place.  With RIGHT SIDES together, join yarn with slip stitch through both Brim and Crown Body. Working through both layers, ch 1, then (sc, ch 1) evenly around to join both pieces together.

Weave in all ends. Fold brim up in the back and down in the front.

Optional: The following instructions are for the daffodil embellishment.

Daffodil Inner Petals

Worked in the round without joining or turning between rnds.

With Yellow, ch 2.

Rnd 1. 6 sc in second ch from hook. 6 sc

Rnd 2. 2 sc in ea sc around. 12 sc

Rnds 3 & 4. Sc in ea sc around.

Rnd 5. *Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from *around. 18 sc

Rnds 6 & 7. Sc in ea sc around.

Rnd 8. *Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 24 sc

Rnd 9. Sc in ea sc around.

Rnd 10. *Sc in next sc, ch 3; rep from * around. Join with sl st in first sc in rnd.

Finish off.

Daffodil Outer Petals

Worked in the round, joining, but not turning, between rnds.

With Yellow, ch 2.

Rnd 1. (Sc, ch 4) 6 times in second ch from hook. Join with sl st in first sc in rnd. 6 sc and 6 ch-4 sp

Rnd 2. Ch 1, sc in same sc as joining, *(hdc, dc, 5 tr, dc, hdc) in next ch-4 sp; petal made. Sc in next sc; rep from * across, omitting sc from last rep. Join with sl st in first sc in rnd. 6 sc and 6 petals

Rnd 3. *Sc in next hdc, hdc in next dc, dc in next tr, tr in next 2 tr, picot, tr in next tr, dc in next tr, hdc in next dc, sc in next hdc, sl st in next sc; rep from * around, working last sl st in same sc as joining from previous rnd.

Finish off.

Daffodil Assembly

Sew Inner Petals to center of Outer Petals. Sew Daffodil to desired position on Fedora. Weave in all ends.

Abbreviations
beg beginning
ch chain
dc double crochet
ea each
hdc half-double crochet
m month
MC main color
mm millimeter
rep repeat
rnd round
rnds         rounds
sc single crochet
sl st     slip stitch
sp space
t-ch   turning chain
tr treble crochet

18 comments:

  1. What a cute pattern - thanks so much for sharing! :)

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  2. Such a wonderful and carefully designed hat pattern!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Great looking Fedora, thank you!

    elmey

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  4. It's a beautiful pattern, but ut it's not a Fedora, it's a Trilby!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Tomato, to-mah-to. Trilbies are also known as "crumpled fedoras," and since "fedora" is the more recognizable vernacular, I stand by my naming convention. ;)

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  5. I so want to make this hat as I have a friend (36) who has just been diagnosed with metastasized colon cancer (lymph nodes, lungs, and skull/long bones) and I think making up a bunch for her and all her friends to wear would make for a great show of support.
    I even have, in stash, a whole lot of the dark (almost Dr Who Tardis) blue that happens to be the colon cancer ribbon colour.
    I'm having a heck of a time with the gauge, though ... just to make certain I understand correctly, the whole square of 16 stitches by 28 rows needs to measure 4 inches in length, width, both?
    I normally make amigurumi, blankets and the like .. this is my first attempt at something that actually needed a swatch done and I want to get it right.
    Thanks in advance for the assistance.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Right--the whole gauge square when it's done should measure about 4 inches square. A quarter of an inch in either direction won't make much difference, but if you're off by more than half an inch, I'd try again with a different sized hook. :)

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  6. I'm sorry, but I'm having a lot of difficulty with this pattern. Cherub Aran is a 4 weight yarn, correct? I'm using a 4 weight, and upon getting to the body of the hat, I am having a really hard time seeing how this is going to fit my 6 month old's head. It seems too big and too big for the top that I have made. Please help? I don't even know where to begin diagnosing this. I'm a pretty seasoned crocheter, so I feel like I should be able to figure this out and that I'm going to feel dumb when I realize where I've gone wrong... lol

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, Cherub is 4 weight, but I would say it's on the lighter side of 4 (like how Red Heart Super Saver is heavier than Caron Simply Soft, despite both being worsted weight). I'm going to start by stating what I'm sure you already know, to make sure that your gauge swatch matches the gauge listed above.

      Assuming that it does, the hat is constructed so that the last round of the top has the same number of stitches as the beginning chain of the body. The body flares out from the top, so it will be wider than the top, but it will all "ease" together when you assemble it.

      Regarding the size, are you making 0-6m or 6-12m? The 6-12m is actually sized for 12m (or a 17-inch head), with the thought that a 6-month-old would eventually grow into it. But these are "standard" sizes, and we all know that kids don't always fit the mold. Our toddler has a larger-than-average head, so we actually made her hat in the Child Size. Similarly, her father has a smaller-than-average head, so we made his hat in the Adult Woman size.

      Additionally, the pattern was designed with positive ease in mind, meaning that the measurements of the hat are larger than the measurements of the head. This was done because the woven stitch pattern has virtually no elasticity, so it would not be able to stretch over the head like a typical crochet beanie would. We felt that making the hat slightly larger than the head measurement would give a more comfortable fit, and this is actually standard practice in non-crochet hat making.

      I hope all that helps. Please let me know if you have any more questions.

      Delete
  7. In row 6 of the crown body, the directions say (ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch). I can't make sense of it. Would you help me?

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    Replies
    1. Hmm, that should say "skip next sc." Thanks for bringing it to my attention. I've corrected it above. :)

      Delete
  8. This doesn't really make sense... Are you supposed to do the crown body in a full round? Cause I have done this and it's a big donut that I can't make sense of... Pictures would help!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'm sure you've already done this, but first I want to just make sure that you checked your gauge before you started. :) Too loose a tension would make it floppier than as pictured.

      Assuming your gauge is correct, I can now say that the body does sort of look like a donut before the hat is assembled; the crown, brim, and wearer's head help to give it it's final shape. This is by design, as the hat was designed for chemo patients; a stiff hat would be too harsh for their sensitive scalps.

      The body *is* worked in the round, but shouldn't be a completely flat donut, though. It should be at least somewhat conical, but not necessarily standing up on its own. If it's laying completely flat and you've been joining between rounds as directed, you may want to size down to a smaller hook.

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  9. I need help. First I love this pattern :) but I was wondering when assembling the crown top to the crown body, do we attach the smaller end of the body to the top or the bigger wider end of the body to the top? Any help would be really helpful. That k you!!

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    Replies
    1. Yes, the smaller end of the Body gets attached to the Crown. :)

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  10. Also, I have been trying to work on my gauge again because the first trial didn't go so well. I'm using Caron simply soft and I went down to a 1/2.75mm hook and the length is still 4.5" long. What am I doing wrong?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. How is the width with 2.75mm hook? If the width is correct and the length is too long, you may be drawing your loops too high when you yarn-over. Try to keep your loops as short as possible. I tend to be a tight crocheter, so I doubt you're doing anything *wrong* per se; we just crochet differently. :)

      Delete
  11. I'm making a toddler hat. The crown top is done. I have completed round 2 of the Crown Body. When I put the body up against the top there is 6 inches of "left over" (when I put the chains - 130 chains) around the perimeter of the Crown Top.
    The Crown top is 7.5 in diameter and 23 inches around.
    The Crown Body is 30 inches around.
    If I keep going won't I be left with 6 inches more than the needed when I go to assemble it?

    ReplyDelete